Drywall Prices


Drywall Prices 3491
albuquerque 28
anchorage 27
atlanta 110
austin 24
bakersfield 21
baltimore 35
boston 100
buffalo 22
charlotte 42
chicago 277
cincinnati 33
cleveland 64
columbus 48
corpuschristi 5
dallas 62
denver 119
detroit 89
elpaso 5
fresno 13
honolulu 44
houston 61
indianapolis 56
jacksonville 15
kansascity 77
lasvegas 82
lincoln 23
losangeles 216
memphis 11
miami 116
milwaukee 31
minneapolis 142
nashville 41
neworleans 25
newyork 69
oklahomacity 24
omaha 45
philadelphia 59
phoenix 267
pittsburgh 47
portland 132
raleigh 38
sacramento 95
sanantonio 31
seattle 272
stlouis 106
stockton 5
tampa 70
tucson 28
tulsa 20
washingtondc 119

Drywall Tips and Tricks

Drywall construction became prevalent as a speedier alternative to using plaster-based interior finish techniques, which involved forcefully spreading a substrate of coarse plaster onto the wall's lath-work before finally applying the smoother finish coat. Drywall, by contrast to plaster, requires hand finishing only at the fasteners and joints. The drywall process requires less labor and drying time, lending its name to the panels used in the assembly. Today I would like to give some basic tips on how to install drywall, otherwise known as sheet rock. It comes in various thicknesses, and each type of drywall has it's own applications and uses, but first let's get our surfaces ready.

1. PREPARATION. I recommend installing drywall directly to the wall studs or ceiling joists. Some contractors and handy men just install new drywall over the old ones, or paneling, or lath wall.

This is a poor installation method due to the fact that the new drywall cannot be securely fastened because of screws missing the studs, unknown electrical or plumbing lines behind the old wall, etc.

When I see these installations, I generally attribute it to laziness, they didn't charge enough to remove the old drywall, so on and so forth. There can be moisture, leakage, or termite issues going on behind these walls, so remove everything to the bare studs.

Check the insulation ( if any ), the conditions of the studs, and plumbing and electrical lines ( if any ). If everything is good, check to make sure the studs have all nails and screws removed, and is generally smooth and plumb( check plumb by using a 6 ft. level.)

2. WALL INSTALLATION. Begin by measuring the length and height of the wall to be covered. Install the drywall with the 8 ft. length horizontal to the studs, if the studs are 16" center the drywall should line up to 7 of the studs with the last stud on center. continue installing, measuring and cutting the last piece. To begin the next row, install a full drywall sheet atop the row you just finished, to create a staggered effect, making sure they line up to the studs correctly. THE KEY TO A GOOD DRYWALL INSTALLATION IS TO STAGGER THE SHEETS. If the drywall seams line up in a "cross" pattern, this creates a weak point in the installation, and can be prone to crumbling.

3. CEILING INSTALLATION. Installing drywall on ceilings is more difficult than walls, generally it requires two people working together. If you are working by yourself, it is a good idea to rent a drywall lift for this project, working overhead wears your arms out faster and the lift is a tremendous help. Or you can construct what is known in the trades as a "dead man", which is basically two by four lumber screwed together to hold up the drywall while it is being screwed. make sure the joists are exposed and all nails and screws removed. measure and install full sheets, staggering them as you move along. Measure and mark cuts for lighting and any other ceiling fixtures. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER TO STAGGER THE SHEETS, ESPECIALLY FOR CEILINGS. Failure to do so will result in sagging ceilings, as gravity pulls on the weak points. you would have to constantly plaster the weak spots, but eventually the ceiling would fall down, or have to be taken down.

4. TIPS ON PLASTERING. For wall joints I prefer to use the perforated drywall tape, on corners and where the ceilings meet the walls I prefer to use the standard drywall tape. Using a small plaster knife (4 inch) tape all of your joints, embedding the tape as you go, smoothing out any bubbles. Let it dry thoroughly, then lightly sand smooth. Using a wider plaster knife (7 inch) plaster all seams again, letting it dry thoroughly. Sand lightly. for the final coat, use a slightly larger plaster knife (10 inch) and plaster all seams again, let it dry and sand it to get it ready for primer and paint. Most contractors use a minimum of 3 plaster coats on drywall, which is what I also recommend.

5. RECOMMENDATIONS. For walls, use 1/2" drywall or thicker, for ceilings use 3/8" drywall ( except in kitchens and baths, where you should use 1/2" moisture resistant drywall), for wood wall studs use 1 1/4" coarse drywall screws, for metal wall studs use 1 1/4" fine thread drywall screws, I don't recommend drywall nails, they have a tendency to come loose, resulting in "pop outs". For ceilings use 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" coarse screws. Make sure to use fire-rated drywall in basements, and moisture-resistant drywall in kitchens and baths, Double check the building codes in your area to verify the correct types and thicknesses. Use these tips as a guideline for your drywall installation, and you should have excellent results.

Eric Lamar is a licensed Home improvement contractor in the greater New York City Area and has over 15+ years experience in the home improvement industry. His company, 96 pro contractors, has been in business since 2008 and specializes in all phases of home improvements. Visit us at http://www.96procontractors.com to learn more about how you can improve your home!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_J_Lamar



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